Monday, November 15, 2010

Been a while since I posted! Not a whole lot going on around here since its mid-Nov.  Lolo is completely done for. Went up and shot guns and chilled by a fire in the rain about a week ago. That was fun. This last lolo season yielded quite a bit of new development. Deano and I probably put up a good 40 new problems. There was development by others too. Scotty, Sam, Joe, Kyle, Greg, Dylan and others all helped out. Quite a bit of climbing came out of this season. The alchemist project was sent by Greg, McClure and I sent the Escape artist sit, and Kyle FAd the Opium, 7C/7C+? props to everyone.

We've eked out a couple more days out at kootenai. I've been working on the Arborist but tore a nice chunk out of my right ring finger a little over a week ago. Thing was gushing blood. Things are slow to heal so just getting back and climbing easier trady stuff and ropegunnin for some friends who are just getting back into climbing. And lots of pulling on the woody n lifting weights, 5 days a week, like a job. Its been fun to help rekindle the fire for folks, especially, Mike Cwik. I'm also helping mentor this kid Jessie from BigSky HS who is doing  his senior project on climbing. We're gonna meet up sometime this week at the old UM gym, showem the ropes n stuff. It should be fun. Now we get to wait out the crap weather for P-lot/jtree season.

P.S. Headed to Indian creek through the holiday 10days. Kind of a krew. I'll be flying my MT Flag, bitches. See you there.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Kooter Mileage!

Went out yesterday with Dean and Chris to Kootenai yesterday for a great sesh. I've still been hittin it hard just trying to get in real good shape for the winter climbing season. Dean is finally climbin back on the horse after a hunting hiatus. I never really transition gears from climbing to other sports but it seems to work well for others, keeps ya fresh...i guess. Chris brought his camera gear and we fixed some lines and did some shots n stuff. It was fun. Yesterday ended up great. I got in 11 pitches, 9 of those being .12s. workin on that ten sleep challenge ken was talkin bout. anyhow, first snow on lolo peak. might be a shit winter. we'll see.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Waving by to the fall!

Looks like the shit is going to hit the fan, weather wise anyway. 40s, Rain and the dreaded snow. I'm not really a skier anymore so...fuck winter. Skiing is sick though. And if I wasn't poor i'd probably buy some gear and take it back up. I do miss shredding pow.  Shredding pow is like good oral sex, it doesn't get much better. Plus gravity is in your favor, unlike climbing. Although, as we all know, the school of gravity gives hard knocks. Regardless, i'd rather be climbing somewhere nice n sunny. Like J-tree or Bishop, or The Creek, even if its cold as fuck, the walls have that micro-climate of sorts. 

The winter Destinations of the West are unparalleled! I'm feeling the tree pulling me. The creek for turkey day perhaps Jtree for a great 6 weeks if I can make it happen, mid Jan-Feb, with good old Deano the Machino. BTW i need a fucking nick name, so give me some ideas, and don't be a smart ass. Wrangler, Maverick and Jeans have all been used before and that quirky nick name that my Aunt came up with but we'll not discuss that here. Not that its bad, I just dont' want that shit on the street. word. 

The first Butress at Kootenai is getting good now. Sending temps i'm feeling. The nice thing is that those routes are overhanging enough to shed most light to moderate precip and it catches some sun. The BRIK, The Arborist, Hilti traverse, project, project, Lowfat turkey Dog. All good. Last weekend i got used to climbing on ropes again. Running laps on the BRIK felt good. Surprising how much training power can actually turn into endurance if you know how to ease off and just relax on those holds. Plus the tactics involved in ropes are so awesome. Its more of a journey than a boulder problem, however, those committing highballs are journeys too. If the weather holds i rekon i'll have some draws up on the Arborist and getting used to the mother again, hopefully send the rig this season. Tired of projects, need new stuff thats hard and fresh.
well...the woody is calling. you sick fuck, no! Climbing! 

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Disappointment, penny pinching and PLastic!

 I know..........its kinda fucked up. Like my life!

I'm sure by now the word has spread, and yes, i'm still in MT. Worse places to be for sure. The highly anticipated NY job contact totally fell through. Just goes to show ya not to stack all yer chips in one pile. Between breaking up with the lady, not working for two weeks, drinking a lot and getting my Zen training merit badge and training like a Fiend i've nearly fallen off the edge into a pit of anxious, self deprecating monk vomit. If that makes any sense? I have, however, been enjoying NoT working, sleeping in, getting fucked up, not having any obligations what so ever. Like when you realize, smoking that cig on the street corner, that there's no people you gotta meet up with, no one to go home to, do what-ever you want, that feels good, really good. I've also been getting back to searching out new music. Good shit. Probably cause---

Timmy and I hung out other was "fun"!

The Institution is keeping me in their cage till further notice, until I come up with $40'000 to pay those assholes back. I hope Obama will forgive that shit and legalize Herb in Cali. Then the black god will shine....oh didn't know?.........God is a big black man

In addition to being poor and having my main climbing buddies check out for other legitimate pursuits and it getting dark at 7 (which blows) I haven't been outside a whole lot. Two weekends ago made it up to lolo for some goodness. I worked out and finally sent the sit to At all costs, realizing the totality of the endeavor. Likely a good V7 ish thing, not as hard as Great White though (Pickle, nice job!). Brandon followed suit that same eve. I also climbed a funky assis to Sirens Vagina making a funky V5? The "Bruns", Victoria and Dylan were there in addition to Molly, Brandon and some older folks with kids and a couple who've names are eluding me. I kept yelling "FUCK" when I fell off. sorry kids, this is a cruel and expletive filled world we live in. Welcome!

.. And WE SHOT GUNs n Got DRunk. A did all kinds of stupid shit!

The plastic has been good. During my work hiatus i got psyched again at the woody. Several days of getting reacquainted started to yield very desirable results. Small home walls are the shit. If you don't have one, build one. Its a good arrow in the quiver at getting strong, plus you can do all the things at the woody that you can't at the school gym. Fuck it!

Last night I went to Emancipator at the top HAT,  danced, drank, smoked and people watched. I think i may have seen more beautiful woman last night than ever in one place in my life before. Insanity. Ive become convinced that the world is getting crazier by the day

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Opium Den proj goes DOWN!!!

Well.....The long awaited ascent of the Opium Den proj went down the other day by the hands of Kyle "Nasty" Neely. Not sure what he named or graded it. We were talking somewhere in the V9/10 range. Another hard problem in Lolo. I'm really glad this finally went down, even though I'd had quite a bit of time on it and was pretty close, its awesome Kyle nabbed it. Super stoked that it went down by a MT local, woot woot, Missoula represent, and not some outa-state floner. Props to you Kyle. Good work and perseverance!!! With this ascent I'm willing to bet that Lolo now has the highest concentration of good/hard bouldering in the state. Not that I'm pissing on the Batholith or anything, there are just more unique features to be had in Lolo. Word!

Yesterday- Went out with an afternoon sesh with Chris Gibish and Dave Kratovchvile out to climb some ropes in lolo. Dave has had a pretty long hiatus from climbing and I've been trying to help motivate him to get back out. We went to Reef Rock climbed some pitches, did a little bolt replacement and took some photos. Then went over to Elk and did some more climbing. The weather looked a bit dodgy in the morn but it proved to be a beautiful day, almost too hot in the sun. We stayed to near sunset and enjoyed the fleeting sunshine. 

-Fuck, There's those days when it feels so good to be out there in the woods, quiet, comfortable, beautiful, a slight breeze, good company and Libations! Days when you long to stay out there forever. I appreciated it even more knowing that I might be my last day out there for a while, but alas, NY is looking up but pushed back till next week. But looking solid. It gives me another couple of days in lolo. I'm taking Ken Turley on a Tour on Sunday, of all my new hard routes. And maybe a sesh with Dylan and Vicky on Sat. 

Also, Just want to give a big thanks to all my friends who make life more enjoyable by their presence and attitude. High five. Peace, and once again, Kyle good job!

Monday, September 20, 2010

Motown Mofo

Well....I'm still in Missoula, blast! No climbing updates here. Just some plastic session with Floner-sds on the woody.. It sounds bad I know, but its climbing. Just trying to work and make money while hanging out with my thumb up my ass, going crazy, waiting to see if the whole NY digs is going to work out or not. To make matters worse, Not being in school pretty much makes my schedule opposite in some fucked up way than most of my friends. That being said I don't actually have that many mainstay climbing partners. My two main ones, Dean and Kelsey are totally MIA. Dean is Lost in the woods in hunting land and Kelsey fell into a vat of clay on his mission get his BFA. He's alive, but restricted to the schedule of, Work, School, Family, Clay, 6 hrs sleep repeat. Keep it together bro. See the light!

Fucked up thing too is, If its not raining its hot n muggy. Kind of poor climbing conditions unless its overcast. Anyway... peace

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Winds of Change!

Soon I'll be embarking on an unknown adventure into unknown territory, NY. The winds of the universe have picked up and inflated my sails in a new direction, temporarily! I'm off to Souther NY to build a post-modern/contemporary/nonconventional house with my friend Adam Fruh.  Denning, NY, is BF nowhere, however, it is super close to the Gunks. I hope we'll get some time off. Rumney might be in the cards as well. Not looking forward to paying to drive more than usual in addition only being able to drive 65 mph max, WTF, right?
    My real hopes and motivation for this trip are financially motivated, no doubt. If all goes well, I'll not have to stress about being broke for the winter. This will be a nice change of pace and peace of mind........
I'll be back, don't worry now. Montana's winter climbing scene will be prime when I get back. P-lot, perhaps Kootenai, conner and wandering in the woods, through the snow cleaning frozen moss and stumbling with the saw and or drill!

This weekend, I'm heading up the west fork to meet up with some old pioneer climbers, Ivan Pyatt, Jim Durkin, Gray and Eloisse Thompson, Craig Kenyon, Rick Torre, Micheal Scott, Tobin Kelly, This is the potential roster. 

Anyhow, so there are some sick Lolo like domes, in fact it is the same rock as lolo exactly just 70 miles away. Funny how that works. It is really cutting things close going down there but I'm trying to get as much Guidebook info and lost info on Missoula area climbing as possible in one swoop. The guide will encompass lolo routes and bouldering and other misc crags and forgotten info, ie, reststop, p-lot, and updates to popular crags. 

Anyway back from the tangent, So... looking forward to meeting some old dudes, chilling by the fire, rallying some dirt roads in the Menace (my trucks new name) and putting up some routes/freeing some projects and generally checking out a new place.

To all those folks who are going to Loho, sorry i'm not coming, I prefer the woodwork to the crowds and crisp, sharp holds to greasy ones.  And I like it when I'm the redneck with guns not some sketch dumb fuck b-root retards who are completely ignorant and have NO mind for respect of the rock or land. For Example: The super Rad boulder is FUCKED!!!! Forever!!! 

Back again from another Tangent... So if you want to get away and check out some new shit at Losthorse. Continue another 11 miles up canyon, start your odo at the bridge but don't take that left, The Stallion area is on the left across the creek and you can't miss it remember 11 miles. There is some good shit there. Haven't done a lot of it but a change of pace. Bring several pads/spotter and some balls cause that shit is high.

And remember, all you floners have fun and be safe. Don't get too drunk and spot people and watch your tongue and actions around those kids. Be a good role model for now anyway.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Made to order

Kelsey Duncan and I headed up 
to the pass this early weekend to take care of some business. Kelsey is about to getballs deep in his art/work/homelife and I might be taking off to NY to build a house until mid Nov. We bolted a route on this undeveloped dome in the lower crystal theater a little over a year ago and hadn't been back. We drove up a nice logging road and found a new sweet place to camp, made a fire pit and set in on beers and making some burritos. Temps were perfect and we passed out late after meandering around some boulders in the dark. The morning greeted us with some semi rainy looking clouds, amazing breeze. coffee, burritos, cig, climb. I even found a crystal when I was poopin! cool-
Crystal castles 512c follows a barely there looking set of features for 80' and then climbs another 40' of run out slab to the top. It climbs a lot like limestone, very technical and footwork dependent.  We went to the top to rap over and clean/chalk and re-sus the line for redpoint goes. As we rapped off there was a huge swarm of honey bees living in a pocket adjacent to the route.  Sketch. There is also a really sweet Fir tree and a nice rock to chill at below the route. Especially since its south facing. The clouds started in and Kelsey tied in, fell, worked it out and lowered. By now the clouds had passed so I cracked a beer and rolled a cig up to wait for some shade. Well, it didn't come for me and I tied up any way and sent. A cross body clip off a half pad mono was a little worry some but it all worked out and I climbed to the top. The upper slab was a bit dicer, feeling like i was hauling a boat anchor. Sweet, I untied and dropped the rope back down and scrambled off. 
-another beer-n-cig, and the clouds came back, but dark very dark. So K-bone tied in and started up. Through the first crux, it started raining a little, shit dude send it, fuck off rain. And indeed the rain fuked off enough so K-bone could send by the skin of his teeth. And we were happy. But Then it did start raining hard so I rushed up amidst the thunder and lightening and rain, on top of the dome, reveling in my stupidity and the danger. Rapped super quick and then the storm had passed and we rejoiced with beers in hand and packed up and enjoyed the sun.

ThEn----We headed down the way just a bit and climbed the eagles Brood a nice 512 boulder crack boulder problem that is thin hands/overhanging and right slanting and sick. We tapped up and got worked until we sent. Totally the bachar cracker of lolo. A Justin Peterson testpiece!
And on we went, pack up the truck and down the road and onto the highway and back to fishcreek to granite creek- To Roll Rock for some more business. 

Brometheus 12c is a 4 bolt line next to Roller girl that I talked about last week. We didn't have the gumption for it last week but today was prime. Stick clip the first bolt, boulder problem to rest to boulder problem to rest.....boulder to rest, chains. I crushed it first go. Kelsey worked out his beta and sent as well. Work.

Then we headed to Tor rock to look for kelsey's lost glasses which became un-lost.
Today's redpoints bring the total to 5-5.12 FAs this season, two 12bs and 3 12cs.

This little trip was perhaps the best of the season. The culmination of all our hard work. All we had to do was climb. No bolting, no cleaning, no bullshit. It was totally the peak of Kelsey and My partnership for the season. It was a really good run of things. One would hope that days like this are attainable at a higher frequency, but days such as these come about with undue rarity.   I've had many a satisfying day out in the woods with peeps but today was one of the best. An aim for future experiences!!.

Friday, August 27, 2010

Catch up!

Well its been awhile! Lets get things caught up to speed. A couple weekends ago I headed over with Beth to the BoulderBatholith Comp/fest; it was good. Brandon and Molly are back and they came over and climbed on the sickness. The comp went well. I cam in second to some strong sponsored dude from WY. Lots of good folks and good times. Another weekend of gettting fucked-up and climbing.

Working on the guide book. Shit takes forever. 

Been out to lolo quite a bit to do new shit some more. Bolted two new routes with Kelsey Duncan this last weekend and we're headed back to send them both, 5.12 i think. Super good slightly improbable but great. Bromethias and Roller girl, respectively.  Bromethias is 4 bolts with a boulder start and then another looooonnnnnngggg lock off to a crimp followed by some semi-easy-climbing and Roller girl is boulder start to sweetness/funkyloloshit. 11 bolts I think, its a huge arcing line. Gotta keep ya off the deck right?


I shit you not,, it took a half hour in grid lock to get from the center of town to wallmart yesterday and it was backed up from lolo. WHoly fuck man. So..................-----------#####we bailed to REststop crag for a cramped evening sesh. It was good as always. I love that place, so good. Might be checking out over the east coast for a couple of months but I'm stoked to make some $$$$$$$ and maybe stop at the red and go to rumney n shit. The Red is sooooo got, go there and get PUMPED.   I get the word next week if its a go. I'm crossin my fingers to say the least. I'm ripe for an adventure and some time away from MT even though I love this place more than life itself. life goes on--and there's always some shit to climb. 


Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Random Redpoints

Yesterday, Craig Kenyon, Kelsey Duncan and I headed out to lolo for an evening seshuan! Kelsey and I had put in a couple of bolts and an anchor on a cool little Dike climb down on the Creek by Tor Rock. We hiked down, removed some dead fallen trees and I put in the last bolt and did some remaining cleaning and handed over the sharp end to the Crag Master. CM sent and Kelsey and I followed up and created KDP 5.8 sport 3 bolts. A great setting and a great addition to the area. This is now the easiest climb at Tor and a great warm-up/mod.
After a break  we headed up to the Random events wall to climb a variation on the Lorax I bolted a couple weeks back. I cleaned, sussed out the moves and bolted the thing mid July but just now got back too it. The light was fading fast and I opted for the no-chalk- memory beta ascent. The first part of te Lorax went smooth and I could tell 10 sleep paid off and I cruised into the rest before it gets hard. You have to step out of this alcove after the 2nd bolt on the Lorax and trend right to clip the 1st bolt of the variation and the bust up some tricky, delicate, pocket (several monos) moves past two more bolts to a definite thin redpoint crux to a nice jug/tufa/dike hold. Then it is run-n-fun to the top. Shares anchors with The lorax. The Once-ler 12b/c??. Thanks to Cragmaster and K-dunc for the support. I wrapped up the evening with a dusk lap on the Cowboy and we retired next to the fire and  n made our way back to the saddle. Catch ya again partners.

Also- Replaced the Sleeping Beauty anchors in Kootenai today!!


Sunday, August 1, 2010

Ten Sleep getaway

Not this previous Wednesday but the one before I broke out of Missoula's vortex on a solo road trip to meet up with Scotty and Jessie who were camped out at Ten Sleep for a couple of weeks. I finished work and all my errands latyer than I wanted and made it out of town around 5:30. I had intended to make the whole 8 hour drive that night but I got sidetracked in Bozeman by some bros with beers, namely Tom K and Guy, and spent the night.
Thurday morning I woke, drank coffee with TK and hit the road for the remaining 5 hours. I arrived in town just in time to meet up with Scotty and Jessie before they hit the crag at 1:30.
Slavery Wall, Word! ALL The climbing is in the shade after 1:30 so conditions are actually quite good even though it can be 100 degrees in town. First day: warmed up on a Schools out a couple of times and then procedded to belay Scotty on Happiness in Slavery 12b. Scotty sent and I decided to give it a go. It took for fucking ever but I managed to eek out a long flash of this. What a sick route. Almost gave up. Then we hoofed it over to Jessies project at the time The Great White Behemouth 12b. Ended up flashing this one as well. Super stocked. Kinda luck in a way, so many chalked holds you never know what you're going to get. We were all pretty worked by this point and I went and flailed around on some more shit at the French Cattle Ranch= FCR and super sick streaked limestone wall. Saw Joe Kinder do some cool 14a FA and meet a load of super cool folks. Joe and his girl Friend Colette are the nicest pro's i've ever meet. Super chill and not weird at all or snobby. I wish all climbers were that nice and chill.

The next few days only yielded one route for Scotty and me Kielbasa 12c. I tried some other shit but wasn't into it.

The last and final day I was able to do two great routes on the Slavery wall with the quickness. EKV 12c and Prince Abduhla 12d both second go 4th day on. Both awesome routes. Scotty did The Prince 2nd go too. Great job Scotty!

Ten Sleep: Is sick. Climbing is awesome, The people are kick ass awesome and the camping is uber chill and free. Only thing is you have to drive to the next town for food. Plus there is a super cold creek to ice your pumped arms in and the sceenery is top-notch. Couldn't ask for much better place to go. You get to sleep in and dick around before you go climb everyday, so sweet. Likely the premier Summer climbing destination that isn't blown out and greasy as McDonalds fries covered in redneck toejam and axle grease. Oh and the guidebook is one-of-a-kind, buy it if you go. If you need beta holla at me, I'm going to try and get down there again for a 3day weekend here this month. Peace

Friday, July 16, 2010

Capuccino Cowboy and ketchup

Its been quite some time since I've posted, Sorry. It rained most of this spring and then we sprung right into the scorching temps of summer. Sure makes it hard to climb here. This last month as been full of demotivating, hot and hungover weekends. Deaner and I replaced a couple anchors. The Elk fart/ Dragons breath anchor on Elk and the back side anchor on Tor that serves three climbs including Originator. We also replaced all the anchors on the random events wall earlier in the season.
Last weekend Pickle-Peck aka BIG rig and I went to scope some boulders at Baker lake that Kyle was raving about.....yeah.... they sucked. We were foder for mosquitos. Floner escepade for sure. So... we bailed to loho. We drove up to the Stallion area, 11 miles past the bridge. The boulders are visible from the road on te south side over the creek. We did a new problem and worked on a new project. The trail crew arete V5? assis climbs the right arete of the first big boulder. There is a fallen tree just right of the climb but it is of no worry. Crux right at the top almost. Good fun. The project is to the left and starts sitting and involves neat beta and good temps for a send oh and it helps if you're tall. I plan on getting up there again soon with the chain saw and do some work out there to make things safer and more aesthetically pleasing. Beth came up and meet us the next day and she made good progress on the duke and dylan and I barely climbed. Too bloody hot.
Earlier this week Kelsey and I managed to take advantage of some unseasonably good temps and went to the random events wall for some goodness. All the climbs on the wall are great ranging from mid 10 to mid 12. Capuccino Cowboy 12a is the prize though. The wall is nicely secluded next to a creek and catches shade in the evening. Plus you have to go through a sick tunnel to get there. The wall itself is grande with sweeping overhangs. Its so good,the cowboy is arguabbly sandbag but is a contender for one of the best 12a's anywhere. Its like the baremetal teen of montana. Headed out for more adventures this weekend. Peace -climb well

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Visitors and Sendage!

It has been raining as most of you know for some time now. On Saturday god stopped crying and let us have some sunshine and blue skies. Thank you Lord! Beth and I did a quick market walkabout and then headed on up to Lolo to meet up with the McClures, Mike and Tami. They came over to Missoula to go to a show and potentially do some climbing and got in touch with me. I was a little heisitant to show off my baby but I said what the fuck and gave them directions. Always good to have a different perspective on things and make some new friends. Mike and Tami are awesome folks. Super-chill, real nice genuine people and their dog Dahlia kicks fucking ass.
We rolled up, meet up with Kelsey Duncan and headed to the Rose Garden boulder to warm up. Ry and Loren also showed up and climbed with us. The forest was a bit damp due to large amounts of rain but everyone warmed up and was stoked on the nice weather. Beth came super close many times to sending her project and Mike added Squeeze Job V8?. After that we headed over to the Beautiful boulder.

I was really excited for Mike to try the lines and confirm some of the grades. In particular Way of the Samurai V9/10 and Heartbroke V8. I suprised myself by repeating my problem the Samurai first go and Mike followed up with the quickness in a handfull of goes. Nice job dude. I heard voices and ran down to the cars to find Jessie "glass boy" Spaulding, Sean McCormick and Kyle "Nasty" Neeley. I talked em into coming up to the beautiful boulder and a session ensued. Some of the guys were new to the boulder and were stoke on the new climbing particularlly Hooray for boobies V6. A sweet dyno. McClure sent almost every hard line on the boulder and He and I worked out the beta to the Project, It has three potential independent exits which is sick. hard, harder and super hard, all likely 7C+ or harder. We were all hungry and I needed some beer so we headed down to the car to refuel and take a break.
After break time we set our sites on the Euro Stone. Home to The The Flying lotus V7, Escape Artist V8/9 and The Alchemist project V10?. Everyone was super excited to get on the Lotus because its awesome. Mike and I both managed to do Escape Artist from its logical sitstart. I had just done the stand a couple weeks prior. Its just a tad bit harder from the sit and has a nasty sharp small RH crimp catch crux. The Alchemist thwarted again, but conditions were far from Ideal and we were both gassed and skinless. We all packed up and headed back, good and exhausted. Beers and some chillin before the drive. I was stoked on the day, likely my best climbing day ever.

Sunday- Some good and not so good news. Loho was damp and muggy, go figure right. Beth and I got out there around noonish to meet up with McClure gang again. Motivation was low and skin layers few. Warmed up, then headed to the Mo-load with the crew, Scotty, Jessie, Kyle, Sean, Some other people, sorry I forgot your names. First off some retard rednecks were shooting skeet right down by the boulders. Then as we rounded the corner of the Super-Rad we were struck by the horrific image of total destruction. Highschool grads I gather had made a huge 4 ft diameter fire pit directly under Zulu Death Mask. The damage is terrible. The original problem is destroyed. We cleaned up the garbage, broken glass, bottles, cans etc and dissasembled the pit and cleaned the new Zulu. There is no phoenix just the ashes. I climbed the new Zulu, It is ok I guess, Not the same, a little easier, and way less aesthetic. Start both hands in seam with good feet now. LH up the Left heal then the same Topout. Oh yeah, and gun fire the whole time. Lame.
One a brighter note, McClure sent Spread' em. The first repetition of this problem. Sweet. Once again good job Mike.

Mike and Tami also got video and pictures of some things. Check it out soon on their site!


Friday, June 4, 2010

Elk Rock Revival

Its raining, just like is has been for nearly two weeks now.  I get fucked twice. One, I likely won't work because I paint houses and two, not much climbing! Never the less Dean and I have been out in Lolo the last three days. Tues, Wed, Thurs. Tues and Wed were rain days so we did trail work and drank beers in front of the fire and managed a small window of climbing but yesterday was cherry with blue skies and wind.

There was an old project (Uncle wiggly's power quest?)  near the hardman wall on Elk rock that we checked out. The line had a brutal tech slab start then traversed into the water runnel. We took this old line and created two plumb mixed lines. The first line, Dave's Deep Discounts 5.12- is just left of White Feather, Stick clip the first bolt, there is no stance to clip in the first 15 ft. Climb sick slab for 6 bolts then run it a while to a #1 camalot placement before the anchor. You could likely climb White Feather and traverse into this line for some harder climbing. The Second line, Aqueduct 5.11+, climbs the line to the left of D3, climb a left facing corner with optional gear to a bolt above the roof, It then gets hard and funky for a few moves then nohands rest. Then you head right a bit then step left into the water runnel for sustained thought provoking climbing. The end is the same as D3 and is spicy but easy. These climbs are bolted in classic lolo style. There is no fixed anchor but you can easy build one with 2 or 3 #2s and a #3 BD. It is super easy to access the anchor area as well. They make great TRs if you're not up for the lead. Stoppers might be useful for pro at the tops as well, like a number 9 or something. 
After we finished up these we headed on top and did some anchor/bolt replacement work on the west face of Elk, We've replaced most anchors on elk and are working on getting rid of all the shit bolts. They're all at bad angles and break with scary ease. All replacement bolts are  bomb SS 3 3/4 x 3/8. carpe diem!

The hideout is coming along well too. We, kelsey, dean, beth and I established a few more problems a week or so ago. Bat Crack V0- 30ft, some v2-v4 lines and another project that is sick and a sweet V7 type thing. The guide is getting fat! We have 50 pages, at least of just text for routes and boulders.


Monday, May 24, 2010

The Crystal Concierge!

Yesterday, Sunday, Dean and I headed out to Lolo to take care of some loose ends and potentially get back on the line that we bolted about a month ago. First order of business was cleaning up after the bear mishap. So we stashed a pad up there with a bunch of tools in it. Axe, ropes, brushes, car jack, biners, etc. The pad had been up  there for quite some time and was starting to get trashed by rats n the like. Dean went back solo one day and found the remains of the pad strewn out. Foam everywhere. You can see the claw marks in the foam. We cleaned that shit up and packed up the tools. We meandered down trough the shady hill boulders, looking at potential problems and cleaned a sweet 30 ft rail traverse. Sick. 
Next up we had to retrieve a ladder that we stashed. So we did that. This ladder is kind of sketchy as it is a telescoping ladder. You're never quite sure if its all locked, once and a while one of the rungs will slide down. A little unnerving to say the least. This ladder was up at a boulder that is really sweet. It has an amazing 20 ft tall overhanging face with one nice possible line. We cleaned it but haven't tried it. I set the ladder up to get ontop of the boulder and went up, dean followed and we retrieved the rope and biners. Dean also found two Coors that I forgot that were up there. Over a year old still good. We cracked em right then. Delicious, Cheers!
Then, we headed back down and rallied to the Random Events wall. We warmed up on The Lorax 11c, a super awesome climb with several mono moves. We recently rebolted this climb because is had bullshit chain-link hangers. Now it is equipped with nice 3/8 SS. Then we got on our line and worked it on toprope. It felt really solid so after Dean was done working it out I gave it a lead go. It flowed nicely and I found myself really appreciating those fine moments. Making a climb a reality and thinking back on times of old. Anyway, we called the line the Crystal Concierge 12b? It has everything, pockets, techy corner, overhanging LB and some more steep pocket pulling. LP DT, peace

Monday, May 17, 2010

Bolting etc....!

Several individuals have started doing route development etc around Missoula the last couple years. This post is to help guide those folks or anyone who is interested in route development to make good choices. Remember, its not just about your FA, it's also about all the other people who may happen to come upon and climb your route between now and the next 30-50 years.

Things to Do: 

  •  Do some research prior to bolting!
  • Make sure you're not on private propery, if so ask permission.
  • Make sure you're not bolting in protected areas or on closed cliffs.
  • Place the best hardware possible, if you're too broke to buy the good shit you shouldn't be putting up routes.
  •  Think before you drill, top-rope the route to figure out the best possible placement for bolts. 
  • Make sure it can't go on gear, if the gear is there use it!
  • Make sure you're not bolting  hollow rock. Bang on it to test. If it sounds hollow it's bad
  • Drill perpendicularly to the rock surface and deeper than the length of your bolt by a good half inch incase you have to bury it.
  • Limestone is porous,  use Stainless hardware.
  • Montana is an arid climate but try not to mix your metals, zinc plated bolts=zinc plated hangers, stainless bolts=stainless hangers.
  • Camouflage hardware to reduce visual impact.
  • Make sure anchor chains form less than a 90 degree angle to limit stress on bolts where applicable and make anchors as low profile as possible.
  • Make sure your rap is good.
  • Anchor bolts should be a minimum 4 in. apart! Staggered anchors work well in some instances.
  • Consider wether or not the anchor needs chain.
  • Cheap hardware store quicklinks are shwag.
  • Try to place bolts at least 4 in. from a seam.
  • Consider the best possible bolts for the application.
Things not to Do!
  • If re-bolting, place the new bolt before you bust off the old stud. Likewise place a new anchor before you remove the old one incase something goes wrong while placing the new hardware. You don't want to leave someone way out with no pro.
  • Do not bolt a squeeze job!!!, 10-15 ft is a good distance in most cases.
  • Do not use home-made hangers. That shit is not rated and can put undue stress on the biners. Mulkey and Rattler are NOT examples of what to do.
  • Chain link hangers are NOT acceptable and place undue stress on the bolts. All bolts with chain link hangers should be replaced.
  • Do not bolt blocks! I know, sometimes you just have to. Make sure that shit is bomb.
  • Do not bolt cracks, in most cases. 
  • Do not use excess chain!
  • Cheap hardware store quicklinks are shwag.
  • Regular zinc-plated hardware store bolts are trash!
  • There is no point in putting up x-rated climbs with bolts, In my opinion. 
My preferences for bolts and Hangers:
  • Hilti KB3 stainless steel wedge bolts about $2.40 per unit, 2 3/4 in. minimum. I like the 3.5 in myself. They're made in Liechtenstein. You can feel the difference.

  • Powers 5-piece expansion bolts are arguable the best choice. Zinc-plated is standard and will cost you $2.30 per unit, SS is better and will cost you almost double that or more for the same size. SS is the best though for anchors. I use the same length as the hilti bolts
  • Fixe has the best hangers and bolts. They will sometimes cut you deals on quantity.
  • Petzl also has good hangers haven't used their bolts but the Frenchies know whats up.
  • For Replacement anchors we use Powers 5-piece 3 in x 1/2 in SS. They are burley and cost around $10 a piece. Luckily we have been graciously given these bolts ARI and ASCA

Sites to check out!

I think that about covers most of the Do's and Don'ts. These guidelines are not set in stone by any means but its a good code to bolt by. Dean Towarnicki and I have been doing work for the ARI and ASCA for several years now, in addition, we have donated countless hours, mountains of hardware and lots of $$$$  to make the climbing around Missoula safer for the masses. Remember its not just about you. It's about all the others that come after you! 

Thanks, Peace, Levi

Sunday, May 16, 2010

The Great Escape!

Dylan and I headed out Friday night to camp out in Lolo. We meet up with Kyle around 8:30 after a serious drive out of town. I don't think I've ever driven the 4200 road faster in my life, and thats saying something. We arrived, brakes breaking, tires squealing, engine burning. Kyle had been waiting only 10 minutes or so, yet he left town a good half hour before us. His low rider's gottta go slow on the bumps though. Hola out to the Rez rider. Beers were cracked and we set up a few targets and did some shooting for a bit and harvested some dead standing for fire wood. A hike ensued and we went and showed him the latest Super Kron v6?, a nice 18 ft, slightly overhanging face/arete that went down earlier in the week and the recently cleaned Euro stone proj. Dean and I had worked on the opening moves last year to no avail but Dylan and I had returned with renewed motivation to check it out. Dylan was/is working on Flying Lotus v7. Likely the best problem of the grade in MT which is right next door. 
Light was fading so we headed back to camp and made a fire. A typical night around the fire. Beers, cigs, climbing talk, you know the digs, Kyle decided to peace out and drive back to town at half past twelve to get some good rest. I don't know what he was thinking. I sleep better in the woods most the time than I do in town. So quiet! Minus a few random gun shots. Love it. 
Morning came quite nicely. Dylan kept waking me up cutting fire wood in the early hours but I even managed to sleep in a little bit despite smoke in my face. Thanks bud. Egg and cheese burritos were out cause the eggs broke on the wild ride in so we had to settle for quesadillas and Hamms beer. Finally Deano the Machino showed up. Good thing cause the nicotine and beers had been exhausted on our end plus he had my big pad. Then we got crankin. 
Once again we decided not to do a proper warm-up which was dumb as always. So I fell off Flying lotus from the worst possible spot and then send and started working on the pro. We must have each tried the first hard move at least twenty times. Then I started to feel it coming. That energy that develops  when your body and mind start to learn the move and dial that shit in. A few more goes and a little rest and it happened. I stuck the move. Dylan had been utilizing a different sequence that worked better for him and was not quite holding the swing. That mofo has long legs, i'll tell ya what. Fukd up long dude beta. So i stuck the move and moved up into the next few moves and PUNTED, not really knowing what to do in foreign terrain. So. I rested and looked at it and smoked and drank some beer and looked at it and then shoed up again. The hold you have to deadpoint to with the right had is Sharp... and Small. Good bite too it. And the hold started taking back. Skin, Dean's skin, My skin and Dylan's skin. I knew it had to go soon or not today. I chalked up, nested feet and hands just like so and went. I latched the hold in not the most perfect fashion and gripped that bruiser and somehow escaped my way too the top. The climbing eases as you ascend but there are still several insecure moves. I was psyched and thrashed. I chilled on top and enjoyed that few seconds we get when things go just so. Our skin was pretty much done after that so we headed back to the trucks for some beers and hatchet throwing. Dylan  and I lost motivation and headed back to town. The day yielded  a nice varied problem, The Great Escape V?, gotta add the three more assis moves for the full value problem but I'm not sure it'll add much difficulty, just pump factor. Sorry no pics just too much rock in hand.  Peace

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Mother's Day

Saturday Mr. Peck got a late start and headed out to Lolo. The forecast was a chance of showers with potential for sending. We arrived pulled the pads out of the truck and it was already drizzling. Damn rain. We eschewed the warm-up and head straight to the corridor boulders where Dylan was working on the second ascent of Fucking cheese ball V8. I had been unable to repeat this problem that I established back in 07. We had worked on it our prior trip and were both psyched to send. I made a flash warmup send and Dylan worked out some better beta while I climbed some other problems in the area. The rain was coming and Dylan's goes were limited. After he worked out his new beta we smoked a cig and he was primed for the send. He executes the first hard move with precision and makes it to the last throw. He sags away a bit and I touch him to prevent an uncontrolled out swing into the adjacent boulder. Bro dab. He eaks over the sloppy top out and it is apparent that he must try again. He takes a few minute break and sends. Sweet. Then it starts raining and we bail into the ride and head over to elk Rock. I was gunning for a new line I had half cleaned last year but it proved to be too wet so we chilled under the massive overhang of the grande boulder and drank our beers and made a fire. Eventually there was a window in the weather and I convinced Dill-hole to make the trek over to the Opium den. It was super humid and the top out was wet, not that mattered cause I climbed poorly anyhow. However, I did work out the moves again. the last hard move is starting to become a formality so it gives me hope that I can send once I stick the second move which happens the be the hardest. I only stick the move once in 15 tries or so. Our window closed and we slogged back to the truck in the rain, checked out some other potential areas and called it a day.

Thursday, May 6, 2010


Yo kt who are you. There's no need for anonymity  Here. Identify yourself!!!


If you're living in western MT you know that the weather has been shit for several weeks now. We got spoiled with several weeks of near perfect climbing weather in early April only to be nearly shut-Down the last several weeks. Beth has got me going to yoga several times a week now and it has been a nice change. I can really feel the difference in my posture and Mindset. I would recommend it to anyone looking for good cross-training. I think it's the key to the next level of my climbing anyhow. Particularly the Opium den Pjkt. I have a hard time quantifying the difficulty of this thing. I  become jaded when we have learned a style/area  of climbing over several years. We engineer our bodies and minds to climb a certain way. So..I've been struggling with what to rate things in our upcoming guide. As always though, sandbag or stiff is always better than soft.

Deaner and I have been out quite a bit with the bad weather exploring and what not. Since house painting is my job and we don't have any interior work i've been chillin A-Lot. And then I was broke with a bunch of time on my hands and no gas money. Several days back we followed a lead on some super secluded boulders. We were on the right track just didn't walk far enough. A wild goose chase for sure. Turns out the boulders sit just in Idaho...I mean Montana. The fastest way is likely a 5 mile approach with significant elevation gain. Thanks to Clinton our access to many places was shut down  even before I started climbing. What a waste to have all these nice logging roads that never get used.  Anyway, we didn't hike far enough but later talked it out with scotty and scoped google earth n shit. Good summer alpine blocs i guess. 

Yesterday we finished bolting a sweet 9 bolts sport route somewhere in the greater Lolo area. Can't wait to go get on it again when it isn't freezing cold. Its nice to just be in the woods doing your thing drinking beers kickin it in front of the fire chillin with your bro. It doesn't get much better and I feel reluctant at the end of the day to return to society.  Well speaking of society and my role, time to get my ass to work. Peace, pics sometime soon. I apologize for my rudimentary blogging skills. In time they will improve! 

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

The Opium Den Projkt, It goes.....and I can do all the moves now....its time to link it up...and has two exits one hard and one weird and hard. Which one shall it be?? fotos courtesy Sam Johnson


On Sunday Dean, Mike Cwik and I rallied out to lolo for some climbing. The objective was to FA two lines that we had cleaned and were waiting for the snow to finally melt off the topouts. We produced two amazing lines. Names are yet to be determined but the following foto will do. The right line where I am standing goes at V6? from the sit and the left most line of flakes goes at likely V3/4 sack. Some more photos of boulders in the area from this winter!

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Loho and Lolo!

Yesterday my friend Ry and I headed out for an afternoon session at Losthorse. The drive takes quite a while now that summer/construction season is more or less upon us. Several bits of 25 mph. We made an attempt to drive up to the Stallion boulders but got thwarted by soft snowy roads and turned back. We arrived, cracked another brew and checked out some potential lines and then warmed up on the clear cut boulder and then moved on to the John Wayne boulder. Ry wanted to work the South Face V7 next to the Duke. I wasn't really planning on climbing a ton but decided to give it a few tries and finally put the thing to rest. Ry made steady progress and should send his next time out. What a beautiful day it was with nice spring sun and a slight breeze. The South Face is substantially easier under ideal conditions as opposed to a greasy summer day. We then set our sights on moving a large boulder out of the way of a good moderate next to the SF. It proved to be easier than expected using caveman techniques and a safe landing soon followed. After that motivation fell through and we had a smoke and took off for the rig. Then the dog took off for 1/2 and hour..great excuse for being late!

Today, I kind of blew off work to head out to Lolo this afternoon to catch up with Sammy, Scotty and Jessie. It was another awesome day here in western MT with great temps and clean air and a near high speed dirt road head on, on the way in. ScarrY! Slow down son! yeah, shit got my heart pumpin, had to bail off the road a bit. The trio parked in a more convenient location and I traveled overland to check out how things were melting out at the Hideout and then trugged over several ridges to make it to the Opium den. The Opium Den is a near dead horizontal roof with a few lines but the beauty exists in a singular pure pocket proj that climbs nearly a dozen feet out the underside of the roof. I have tried this problem for many years but today was the breaking point. At first I thought this problems was going to be somewhere above my grasp deep into the double digits, which it likely is for those of you who are less that 6'. Sorry, another reach/height dependent problem in lolo. Its still going to be hard but likely 7C or 7C+. Anyhow, I figured out the beta from the jug undercling and was able to do the move several times from that point up to the big horizontal. Scotty also did the big reach/tension move. Good work dog. There was only one move that I wasn't able to do today, which is a left-had crossthrough to a more or less flat hold with a suggestion of a lip to a super core intensive throw to the undercling, Burley!!!
Sam has a bum ankle and Jessie has tendinosis/isis or something so they didn't try a whole lot. After the ass kick we made it down to some block Dean n Scotty cleaned which proved to be a bust, as in we floundered with wrecked skin. Then for giggles we jumped back up to a line I had been spying for some time, cleaned it roughly and started working it out. It goes, just one big last throw at the end to a SHARP good hold. I punted a bit, we were tired and so I had one more smoke and took off over yonder to my truck. On the way back I found remnants of a crystal and spooked up three elk on the way out. Sweet. More adventures and hopefully some pics. Sorry my camera is a crap point and shoot to I don't take many photos, however, Jessie and Sam got some amazing pics on Overdose in the Den, I'll beg for them to post and you should too!

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Monday, March 15, 2010

The melt off!

Dean, Ryan and I hiked into the Hideout this weekend for an overnight. Prior to our departure we stopped at bobwards to purchase some more ammo and so Ryan could buy some shit. As we're leaving he recalls that he forgot his walmart sleeping sack. Dumbass. So back we go into b-wards, 10 min later rydog comes out $175 dollars later and chucks his new bag into that back. A few moments later Deaner pipes up, "you know you bought a womans long right?" I didn't turn around so ry was stuck with the chick bag for the night.
This was the third night we've spent up there and it was no less epic. Hiking with oversized crashpads with yellow bellies spilling out the top was just as exciting as the last time. This particular trip we tried a new point of entry which proved to be just as a bitch as the other way, if not more so. Melt that fuckin snow sun. Never the less we stumbled and slipped our way into the hideout. Many beers and a bonfire ensued along with pork sausage n chili. After a few can has accumulated we decided to bust out the pistols for a little redneck target practice. Shooting in the dark aint easy but it'll do. Pick up the brass in the mornin. After shootin I got psyched for some sawin and bucked up a bunch of rounds which Ryan split for the fire. I kind of burned some karma or Nature points this weekend. I took this poor fir 6 times my age for a sick looking sports route. Trees grow, don't get your panties in a wad, you should see what the the loggers do. I finished filling in a landing we built and then went and joined Dean who was working on brushing another dope line. We proceeded to build a landing for that as well. By this point in the evening we had consumed most of our allocated brew and turned in for the eve. It was a cold night and morning brought icicles and some frozen water.
The sun quickly brought warmth and comfort to the day and we continued to clean and check out potential lines for several hours till it was time to climb. Deaner and I cimbed three new lines on one boulder and I repeated an old line he had done before. Then back to the Rabit project. The whole problem changed in a way with the tree being gone. It took we a few tries to stick the first move but I sent the first time I connected with the arete producing a great line. Probably weighs in somewhere around hard 7 or so. Cheers, sorry for no pics but will post again soon.

Sunday, February 14, 2010


Just got done cleaning this beauty this last week with my good climbing partner Dean Towarnicki. Can't wait for the snow and Ice to melt off the top. Who knows how the TOs will be. Spring cannot come too soon.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Lolo Bouldering

Snow is scarce this year up at lolo pass. Dean and I have already been out to check out some boulders that we forgot about. It takes a few years for the vision to catch up as well as the employment of a chain saw as of last year.