Capuccino Cowboy and ketchup

Its been quite some time since I've posted, Sorry. It rained most of this spring and then we sprung right into the scorching temps of summer. Sure makes it hard to climb here. This last month as been full of demotivating, hot and hungover weekends. Deaner and I replaced a couple anchors. The Elk fart/ Dragons breath anchor on Elk and the back side anchor on Tor that serves three climbs including Originator. We also replaced all the anchors on the random events wall earlier in the season.
Last weekend Pickle-Peck aka BIG rig and I went to scope some boulders at Baker lake that Kyle was raving about.....yeah.... they sucked. We were foder for mosquitos. Floner escepade for sure. So... we bailed to loho. We drove up to the Stallion area, 11 miles past the bridge. The boulders are visible from the road on te south side over the creek. We did a new problem and worked on a new project. The trail crew arete V5? assis climbs the right arete of the first big boulder. There is a fallen tree just right of the climb but it is of no worry. Crux right at the top almost. Good fun. The project is to the left and starts sitting and involves neat beta and good temps for a send oh and it helps if you're tall. I plan on getting up there again soon with the chain saw and do some work out there to make things safer and more aesthetically pleasing. Beth came up and meet us the next day and she made good progress on the duke and dylan and I barely climbed. Too bloody hot.
Earlier this week Kelsey and I managed to take advantage of some unseasonably good temps and went to the random events wall for some goodness. All the climbs on the wall are great ranging from mid 10 to mid 12. Capuccino Cowboy 12a is the prize though. The wall is nicely secluded next to a creek and catches shade in the evening. Plus you have to go through a sick tunnel to get there. The wall itself is grande with sweeping overhangs. Its so good,the cowboy is arguabbly sandbag but is a contender for one of the best 12a's anywhere. Its like the baremetal teen of montana. Headed out for more adventures this weekend. Peace -climb well

Visitors and Sendage!

It has been raining as most of you know for some time now. On Saturday god stopped crying and let us have some sunshine and blue skies. Thank you Lord! Beth and I did a quick market walkabout and then headed on up to Lolo to meet up with the McClures, Mike and Tami. They came over to Missoula to go to a show and potentially do some climbing and got in touch with me. I was a little heisitant to show off my baby but I said what the fuck and gave them directions. Always good to have a different perspective on things and make some new friends. Mike and Tami are awesome folks. Super-chill, real nice genuine people and their dog Dahlia kicks fucking ass.

We rolled up, meet up with Kelsey Duncan and headed to the Rose Garden boulder to warm up. Ry and Loren also showed up and climbed with us. The forest was a bit damp due to large amounts of rain but everyone warmed up and was stoked on the nice weather. Beth came super close many times to sending her project and Mike added Squeeze Job V8?. After that we headed over to the Beautiful boulder.

I was really excited for Mike to try the lines and confirm some of the grades. In particular Way of the Samurai V9/10 and Heartbroke V8. I suprised myself by repeating my problem the Samurai first go and Mike followed up with the quickness in a handfull of goes. Nice job dude. I heard voices and ran down to the cars to find Jessie "glass boy" Spaulding, Sean McCormick and Kyle "Nasty" Neeley. I talked em into coming up to the beautiful boulder and a session ensued. Some of the guys were new to the boulder and were stoke on the new climbing particularlly Hooray for boobies V6. A sweet dyno. McClure sent almost every hard line on the boulder and He and I worked out the beta to the Project, It has three potential independent exits which is sick. hard, harder and super hard, all likely 7C+ or harder. We were all hungry and I needed some beer so we headed down to the car to refuel and take a break.

After break time we set our sites on the Euro Stone. Home to The The Flying lotus V7, Escape Artist V8/9 and The Alchemist project V10?. Everyone was super excited to get on the Lotus because its awesome. Mike and I both managed to do Escape Artist from its logical sitstart. I had just done the stand a couple weeks prior. Its just a tad bit harder from the sit and has a nasty sharp small RH crimp catch crux. The Alchemist thwarted again, but conditions were far from Ideal and we were both gassed and skinless. We all packed up and headed back, good and exhausted. Beers and some chillin before the drive. I was stoked on the day, likely my best climbing day ever.

Sunday- Some good and not so good news. Loho was damp and muggy, go figure right. Beth and I got out there around noonish to meet up with McClure gang again. Motivation was low and skin layers few. Warmed up, then headed to the Mo-load with the crew, Scotty, Jessie, Kyle, Sean, Some other people, sorry I forgot your names. First off some retard rednecks were shooting skeet right down by the boulders. Then as we rounded the corner of the Super-Rad we were struck by the horrific image of total destruction. Highschool grads I gather had made a huge 4 ft diameter fire pit directly under Zulu Death Mask. The damage is terrible. The original problem is destroyed. We cleaned up the garbage, broken glass, bottles, cans etc and dissasembled the pit and cleaned the new Zulu. There is no phoenix just the ashes. I climbed the new Zulu, It is ok I guess, Not the same, a little easier, and way less aesthetic. Start both hands in seam with good feet now. LH up the Left heal then the same Topout. Oh yeah, and gun fire the whole time. Lame.

One a brighter note, McClure sent Spread' em. The first repetition of this problem. Sweet. Once again good job Mike.

Mike and Tami also got video and pictures of some things. Check it out soon on their site!

Climbidaho.com

Peace-Levi

Elk Rock Revival

Its raining, just like is has been for nearly two weeks now.  I get fucked twice. One, I likely won't work because I paint houses and two, not much climbing! Never the less Dean and I have been out in Lolo the last three days. Tues, Wed, Thurs. Tues and Wed were rain days so we did trail work and drank beers in front of the fire and managed a small window of climbing but yesterday was cherry with blue skies and wind.

There was an old project (Uncle wiggly's power quest?)  near the hardman wall on Elk rock that we checked out. The line had a brutal tech slab start then traversed into the water runnel. We took this old line and created two plumb mixed lines. The first line, Dave's Deep Discounts 5.12- is just left of White Feather, Stick clip the first bolt, there is no stance to clip in the first 15 ft. Climb sick slab for 6 bolts then run it a while to a #1 camalot placement before the anchor. You could likely climb White Feather and traverse into this line for some harder climbing. The Second line, Aqueduct 5.11+, climbs the line to the left of D3, climb a left facing corner with optional gear to a bolt above the roof, It then gets hard and funky for a few moves then nohands rest. Then you head right a bit then step left into the water runnel for sustained thought provoking climbing. The end is the same as D3 and is spicy but easy. These climbs are bolted in classic lolo style. There is no fixed anchor but you can easy build one with 2 or 3 #2s and a #3 BD. It is super easy to access the anchor area as well. They make great TRs if you're not up for the lead. Stoppers might be useful for pro at the tops as well, like a number 9 or something. 

After we finished up these we headed on top and did some anchor/bolt replacement work on the west face of Elk, We've replaced most anchors on elk and are working on getting rid of all the shit bolts. They're all at bad angles and break with scary ease. All replacement bolts are  bomb SS 3 3/4 x 3/8. carpe diem!

The hideout is coming along well too. We, kelsey, dean, beth and I established a few more problems a week or so ago. Bat Crack V0- 30ft, some v2-v4 lines and another project that is sick and a sweet V7 type thing. The guide is getting fat! We have 50 pages, at least of just text for routes and boulders.

peace-LEvi

The Crystal Concierge!

Yesterday, Sunday, Dean and I headed out to Lolo to take care of some loose ends and potentially get back on the line that we bolted about a month ago. First order of business was cleaning up after the bear mishap. So we stashed a pad up there with a bunch of tools in it. Axe, ropes, brushes, car jack, biners, etc. The pad had been up  there for quite some time and was starting to get trashed by rats n the like. Dean went back solo one day and found the remains of the pad strewn out. Foam everywhere. You can see the claw marks in the foam. We cleaned that shit up and packed up the tools. We meandered down trough the shady hill boulders, looking at potential problems and cleaned a sweet 30 ft rail traverse. Sick. 

Next up we had to retrieve a ladder that we stashed. So we did that. This ladder is kind of sketchy as it is a telescoping ladder. You're never quite sure if its all locked, once and a while one of the rungs will slide down. A little unnerving to say the least. This ladder was up at a boulder that is really sweet. It has an amazing 20 ft tall overhanging face with one nice possible line. We cleaned it but haven't tried it. I set the ladder up to get ontop of the boulder and went up, dean followed and we retrieved the rope and biners. Dean also found two Coors that I forgot that were up there. Over a year old still good. We cracked em right then. Delicious, Cheers!

Then, we headed back down and rallied to the Random Events wall. We warmed up on The Lorax 11c, a super awesome climb with several mono moves. We recently rebolted this climb because is had bullshit chain-link hangers. Now it is equipped with nice 3/8 SS. Then we got on our line and worked it on toprope. It felt really solid so after Dean was done working it out I gave it a lead go. It flowed nicely and I found myself really appreciating those fine moments. Making a climb a reality and thinking back on times of old. Anyway, we called the line the Crystal Concierge 12b? It has everything, pockets, techy corner, overhanging LB and some more steep pocket pulling. LP DT, peace

Bolting etc....!

Several individuals have started doing route development etc around Missoula the last couple years. This post is to help guide those folks or anyone who is interested in route development to make good choices. Remember, its not just about your FA, it's also about all the other people who may happen to come upon and climb your route between now and the next 30-50 years.

Things to Do: 

•  Do some research prior to bolting!
• Make sure you're not on private propery, if so ask permission.
  
• Make sure you're not bolting in protected areas or on closed cliffs.
  
• Place the best hardware possible, if you're too broke to buy the good shit you shouldn't be putting up routes.
  
•  Think before you drill, top-rope the route to figure out the best possible placement for bolts. 
  
• Make sure it can't go on gear, if the gear is there use it!
• Make sure you're not bolting  hollow rock. Bang on it to test. If it sounds hollow it's bad
  
• Drill perpendicularly to the rock surface and deeper than the length of your bolt by a good half inch incase you have to bury it.
  
• Limestone is porous,  use Stainless hardware.
  
• Montana is an arid climate but try not to mix your metals, zinc plated bolts=zinc plated hangers, stainless bolts=stainless hangers.
  
• Camouflage hardware to reduce visual impact.
  
• Make sure anchor chains form less than a 90 degree angle to limit stress on bolts where applicable and make anchors as low profile as possible.
  
• Make sure your rap is good.
• Anchor bolts should be a minimum 4 in. apart! Staggered anchors work well in some instances.
  
• Consider wether or not the anchor needs chain.
  
• Cheap hardware store quicklinks are shwag.
  
• Try to place bolts at least 4 in. from a seam.
  
• Consider the best possible bolts for the application.

Things not to Do!

• If re-bolting, place the new bolt before you bust off the old stud. Likewise place a new anchor before you remove the old one incase something goes wrong while placing the new hardware. You don't want to leave someone way out with no pro.

• Do not bolt a squeeze job!!!, 10-15 ft is a good distance in most cases.
  
• Do not use home-made hangers. That shit is not rated and can put undue stress on the biners. Mulkey and Rattler are NOT examples of what to do.
  
• Chain link hangers are NOT acceptable and place undue stress on the bolts. All bolts with chain link hangers should be replaced.
  
• Do not bolt blocks! I know, sometimes you just have to. Make sure that shit is bomb.
  
• Do not bolt cracks, in most cases. 
  
• Do not use excess chain!
  
• Cheap hardware store quicklinks are shwag.
  
• Regular zinc-plated hardware store bolts are trash!
• There is no point in putting up x-rated climbs with bolts, In my opinion. 
  

My preferences for bolts and Hangers:

• Hilti KB3 stainless steel wedge bolts about $2.40 per unit, 2 3/4 in. minimum. I like the 3.5 in myself. They're made in Liechtenstein. You can feel the difference.
• 
  
• Powers 5-piece expansion bolts are arguable the best choice. Zinc-plated is standard and will cost you $2.30 per unit, SS is better and will cost you almost double that or more for the same size. SS is the best though for anchors. I use the same length as the hilti bolts

• Fixe has the best hangers and bolts. They will sometimes cut you deals on quantity.
• Petzl also has good hangers haven't used their bolts but the Frenchies know whats up.

• For Replacement anchors we use Powers 5-piece 3 in x 1/2 in SS. They are burley and cost around $10 a piece. Luckily we have been graciously given these bolts ARI and ASCA

Sites to check out!

• The American Safe Climbing Association
  
• http://fixeusa.com/
  
• www.safeclimbing.org/education.htm
  
• Anchor Replacement Initiative
  

I think that about covers most of the Do's and Don'ts. These guidelines are not set in stone by any means but its a good code to bolt by. Dean Towarnicki and I have been doing work for the ARI and ASCA for several years now, in addition, we have donated countless hours, mountains of hardware and lots of $$$$  to make the climbing around Missoula safer for the masses. Remember its not just about you. It's about all the others that come after you! 

Thanks, Peace, Levi

The Great Escape!

Dylan and I headed out Friday night to camp out in Lolo. We meet up with Kyle around 8:30 after a serious drive out of town. I don't think I've ever driven the 4200 road faster in my life, and thats saying something. We arrived, brakes breaking, tires squealing, engine burning. Kyle had been waiting only 10 minutes or so, yet he left town a good half hour before us. His low rider's gottta go slow on the bumps though. Hola out to the Rez rider. Beers were cracked and we set up a few targets and did some shooting for a bit and harvested some dead standing for fire wood. A hike ensued and we went and showed him the latest Super Kron v6?, a nice 18 ft, slightly overhanging face/arete that went down earlier in the week and the recently cleaned Euro stone proj. Dean and I had worked on the opening moves last year to no avail but Dylan and I had returned with renewed motivation to check it out. Dylan was/is working on Flying Lotus v7. Likely the best problem of the grade in MT which is right next door. 

Light was fading so we headed back to camp and made a fire. A typical night around the fire. Beers, cigs, climbing talk, you know the digs, Kyle decided to peace out and drive back to town at half past twelve to get some good rest. I don't know what he was thinking. I sleep better in the woods most the time than I do in town. So quiet! Minus a few random gun shots. Love it. 

Morning came quite nicely. Dylan kept waking me up cutting fire wood in the early hours but I even managed to sleep in a little bit despite smoke in my face. Thanks bud. Egg and cheese burritos were out cause the eggs broke on the wild ride in so we had to settle for quesadillas and Hamms beer. Finally Deano the Machino showed up. Good thing cause the nicotine and beers had been exhausted on our end plus he had my big pad. Then we got crankin. 

Once again we decided not to do a proper warm-up which was dumb as always. So I fell off Flying lotus from the worst possible spot and then send and started working on the pro. We must have each tried the first hard move at least twenty times. Then I started to feel it coming. That energy that develops  when your body and mind start to learn the move and dial that shit in. A few more goes and a little rest and it happened. I stuck the move. Dylan had been utilizing a different sequence that worked better for him and was not quite holding the swing. That mofo has long legs, i'll tell ya what. Fukd up long dude beta. So i stuck the move and moved up into the next few moves and PUNTED, not really knowing what to do in foreign terrain. So. I rested and looked at it and smoked and drank some beer and looked at it and then shoed up again. The hold you have to deadpoint to with the right had is Sharp... and Small. Good bite too it. And the hold started taking back. Skin, Dean's skin, My skin and Dylan's skin. I knew it had to go soon or not today. I chalked up, nested feet and hands just like so and went. I latched the hold in not the most perfect fashion and gripped that bruiser and somehow escaped my way too the top. The climbing eases as you ascend but there are still several insecure moves. I was psyched and thrashed. I chilled on top and enjoyed that few seconds we get when things go just so. Our skin was pretty much done after that so we headed back to the trucks for some beers and hatchet throwing. Dylan  and I lost motivation and headed back to town. The day yielded  a nice varied problem, The Great Escape V?, gotta add the three more assis moves for the full value problem but I'm not sure it'll add much difficulty, just pump factor. Sorry no pics just too much rock in hand.  Peace

Mother's Day

Saturday Mr. Peck got a late start and headed out to Lolo. The forecast was a chance of showers with potential for sending. We arrived pulled the pads out of the truck and it was already drizzling. Damn rain. We eschewed the warm-up and head straight to the corridor boulders where Dylan was working on the second ascent of Fucking cheese ball V8. I had been unable to repeat this problem that I established back in 07. We had worked on it our prior trip and were both psyched to send. I made a flash warmup send and Dylan worked out some better beta while I climbed some other problems in the area. The rain was coming and Dylan's goes were limited. After he worked out his new beta we smoked a cig and he was primed for the send. He executes the first hard move with precision and makes it to the last throw. He sags away a bit and I touch him to prevent an uncontrolled out swing into the adjacent boulder. Bro dab. He eaks over the sloppy top out and it is apparent that he must try again. He takes a few minute break and sends. Sweet. Then it starts raining and we bail into the ride and head over to elk Rock. I was gunning for a new line I had half cleaned last year but it proved to be too wet so we chilled under the massive overhang of the grande boulder and drank our beers and made a fire. Eventually there was a window in the weather and I convinced Dill-hole to make the trek over to the Opium den. It was super humid and the top out was wet, not that mattered cause I climbed poorly anyhow. However, I did work out the moves again. the last hard move is starting to become a formality so it gives me hope that I can send once I stick the second move which happens the be the hardest. I only stick the move once in 15 tries or so. Our window closed and we slogged back to the truck in the rain, checked out some other potential areas and called it a day.