Sunday, May 16, 2010

The Great Escape!

Dylan and I headed out Friday night to camp out in Lolo. We meet up with Kyle around 8:30 after a serious drive out of town. I don't think I've ever driven the 4200 road faster in my life, and thats saying something. We arrived, brakes breaking, tires squealing, engine burning. Kyle had been waiting only 10 minutes or so, yet he left town a good half hour before us. His low rider's gottta go slow on the bumps though. Hola out to the Rez rider. Beers were cracked and we set up a few targets and did some shooting for a bit and harvested some dead standing for fire wood. A hike ensued and we went and showed him the latest Super Kron v6?, a nice 18 ft, slightly overhanging face/arete that went down earlier in the week and the recently cleaned Euro stone proj. Dean and I had worked on the opening moves last year to no avail but Dylan and I had returned with renewed motivation to check it out. Dylan was/is working on Flying Lotus v7. Likely the best problem of the grade in MT which is right next door. 
Light was fading so we headed back to camp and made a fire. A typical night around the fire. Beers, cigs, climbing talk, you know the digs, Kyle decided to peace out and drive back to town at half past twelve to get some good rest. I don't know what he was thinking. I sleep better in the woods most the time than I do in town. So quiet! Minus a few random gun shots. Love it. 
Morning came quite nicely. Dylan kept waking me up cutting fire wood in the early hours but I even managed to sleep in a little bit despite smoke in my face. Thanks bud. Egg and cheese burritos were out cause the eggs broke on the wild ride in so we had to settle for quesadillas and Hamms beer. Finally Deano the Machino showed up. Good thing cause the nicotine and beers had been exhausted on our end plus he had my big pad. Then we got crankin. 
Once again we decided not to do a proper warm-up which was dumb as always. So I fell off Flying lotus from the worst possible spot and then send and started working on the pro. We must have each tried the first hard move at least twenty times. Then I started to feel it coming. That energy that develops  when your body and mind start to learn the move and dial that shit in. A few more goes and a little rest and it happened. I stuck the move. Dylan had been utilizing a different sequence that worked better for him and was not quite holding the swing. That mofo has long legs, i'll tell ya what. Fukd up long dude beta. So i stuck the move and moved up into the next few moves and PUNTED, not really knowing what to do in foreign terrain. So. I rested and looked at it and smoked and drank some beer and looked at it and then shoed up again. The hold you have to deadpoint to with the right had is Sharp... and Small. Good bite too it. And the hold started taking back. Skin, Dean's skin, My skin and Dylan's skin. I knew it had to go soon or not today. I chalked up, nested feet and hands just like so and went. I latched the hold in not the most perfect fashion and gripped that bruiser and somehow escaped my way too the top. The climbing eases as you ascend but there are still several insecure moves. I was psyched and thrashed. I chilled on top and enjoyed that few seconds we get when things go just so. Our skin was pretty much done after that so we headed back to the trucks for some beers and hatchet throwing. Dylan  and I lost motivation and headed back to town. The day yielded  a nice varied problem, The Great Escape V?, gotta add the three more assis moves for the full value problem but I'm not sure it'll add much difficulty, just pump factor. Sorry no pics just too much rock in hand.  Peace

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